CRUSTY QUINNS
TECH TIPS
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MYO Gaskets
Posted by JAW
Now this might seem a bit silly, but you get sick of paying money/waiting for gaskets
from Japan so I usually make my own. Yeah, fair enough, don't we all. However when they
get really complex some people will still buy them; so here's a few tips on how to make a
perfect gasket - even if it is a really tricky one.
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The tools you'll need are simple. Gasket paper - you can buy rolls of
different thicknesses, look at how thick the old gasket was. When in doubt, use a
weeties/cornflakes box. Don't laugh, they are perfect for most jobs. What's more
one side is glossy and the other rough so when you separate the thing next time
they always stick to just one side for easy removal!
Hammer and punches. A set of hand punches is dirt cheap, I think I paid about
AUD$5 down at my local hardware. Scissors and a stanley knife are good. I use a
tiny little pencil, a few centimetres long. You'll see why in a sec.
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Tools required - gasket paper, punches, hammer, pencil, scissors,
knife.
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Suss out where the holes are.
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Right, grab the part, you will use it as a template. Clean it. I'm doing a
motorbike rotor cover here. Roughly cut out enough gasket paper/weeties box to do
the job, hold it in place. Using something blunt, say the back of your punches,
feel where the holes need to be. When you find one, rub the gasket paper so it
makes an indent where the hole is. Use your pencil if you can't see the dent
well.
Mark 2 or 3 holes at opposite ends then take the gasket paper off. We will
punch them first, then use them as locators for the rest of the holes.
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Grab a punch that looks like the right size. Using a newspaper or a bit of
wood as a backing, hold the punch on the dent/mark you've made, centred of
course, and hit the back of the punch hard with your hammer. Viloa, a hole.
Now return your gasket to the object and put the bolts through so the gasket
is held in place. If the holes were too small, use the next size up punch and
make them bigger
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Pick a punch size, whack!
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Mark out the rest of the holes. See, the first few bolts will ensure the gasket
doesn't move while you are finding the other holes required. Again, make a dent by
rubbing the gasket paper where the hole is.
With this technique you can get the holes pretty well exactly in the right spot. Make
them a little bit bigger than the bolt to allow some room for error.

Little pencil scribe...
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All the holes are punched, put the gasket back on the object and put bolts in
all the holes. How did you go? All bolts and holes lined up perfect? Well
done.
Now grab your little pencil and upsidedown roughly scribe around the outside
of the object. Cut with the scissors a rough big hole on the inside of the object
- and again use the little pencil to roughly scribe the inside of the object. You
can see now why a little pencil is good.
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Whip it off and you now have a rough guide to the shape of the object. Use
your scissors and knife if need be and cut it out. I find that you don't have to
be super accurate - if a bit of gasket paper is popping out so what. You can
always trim it when the object is bolted back on.
On the inside however, where oil and petrol and stuff is, try to keep it
accurate. The last thing you want is a bit of gasket dag paper breaking off and
clogging up some oil gallery.
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Outlines are scribed.
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Not bad at all.
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That's it, you're done. No more driving to the shops and spending $20 each time
you take something apart. Of course, make sure each surface on the object is nice
and clean before reassembling to stop leaks - use your knife to scrape off any old
gasket or silicone. I try to never use silicone on my gaskets, you shouldn't have
to. Only when things are more warped than they should be will you need
silicone.
Well I said it was probably a bit silly telling you this, but maybe I've taught
you a trick you might not have thought of before - Good Luck!
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